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A 1.77 sq km speck of land 500 m off the coast of Xiamen, a great place to spend a lazy day walking about.

On a sunny morning in early August, I was on a ferry to revisit Gulang Islet (Gulangyu), a 1.77 sq km speck of land 500 m off the coast of Xiamen, and one of my favorite places to spend a lazy day walking about. So small that vehicles and bicycles are outlawed, you can spend an entire day and see the whole island without once ever having to look both ways. (Now that's a luxury.)

Most visitors get drawn into the bustling downtown area upon landing. Browsing among its seafood, pearl, bead, and shell shops, to the shouts of shopkeepers hawking their goods to passersby, you soak in that seaside community atmosphere which is always a nice change of pace. When shopping, remember to bargain; sometimes you can get items for 75% off the opening price.

I, however, like to save the hustle and bustle for the evening, and usually head south through the city's narrow alleyways upon disembarking. I always look forward to the quiet that walking through these tight confines away from the city center brings. My usual destinations are either Zheng Chenggong statue, built to honor the Chinese hero who wrestled Taiwan away from Dutch colonialists and surrounded by a beautiful flower garden overlooking the ocean, or Sunlight Rock (Ri Guan Yan), a spot on the island that offers views of the whole of Xiamen. A local told me that in good weather, even Taiwan can be seen, but I have never been so lucky.

I prefer walking and sightseeing, but for those who want to spend their time swimming or surfing, Seaside Beach (Hai Bin Yu Chang) should be your destination.

Walking about the island, the visitor is sure to notice another of Gulang Islet's main draws - its large number of Western-style buildings, including former embassies, churches, and mansions. Once home to a thriving international settlement established after the Treaty of Nanjing in 1842, the island is a showcase for 19th century European architecture.

Besides old buildings, Gulang Islet's history as an international settlement has left island inhabitants with a love of classical piano music. Nicknamed "Piano Islet", the island is said to have more pianos per capita (one in every five homes) than anywhere else in the world. Outdoor loudspeakers around the island guarantee exposure to this music, at least on parts of your walk.

When I get hungry, I usually munch on a Gulang Islet pancake, which can be found on every corner of the island. With mung bean, lotus, meat, and egg varieties available, you are sure to find one you like. But I'd recommend buying from larger shops rather than street-side vendors to keep on the safe side hygiene-wise. Plan on spending about RMB 5/box. For my ultimate Gulang Islet food recommendation, though, I'd have to say make a stop at Huang Sheng to sample their dried meat floss and charqui. Scrumptious and only RMB 12/500gram, I buy some every time I'm on the island. Find them at 95 Longtou Rd.

By the time I buy my meat floss, I know I'm ready to go home. Tired and happy after a long day of walking and pancakes, and with meat floss booty to take home, I always plunk onto my ferry seat already planning my next visit.

by Zhang Lingling http://www.chinaassistor.com